Upcountry. I don’t know what it is about that word, but to me, there’s something magical to it, suggesting the removal of one’s self to a dreamier, less accessible place. Upcountry. In Maui, this refers to the four major communities on the slopes of Mount Haleakala: Pukalani, Makawao, Kula and Ulupalakua. I’m including mention of Paia because it’s a gateway to Upcountry and can be included in an excursion designed to explore this special area.
It’s perhaps counterintuitive for some Hawaii travelers to think of leaving the beach for inland. But to skip Upcountry is to miss a major part of Maui culture and forgo some of its prettiest sights and most interesting places. For example, there’s the impressive Haleakala Crater, and the Ali’I Kula Lavender Farm, an enchanting wash of violent flowers covering countryside at 4000 foot elevation.
Paia is a fun little surf town where you can shop and watch giant sea turtles crawl around on the beach. The town is small, with only about 2,600 residents. But it has some fun shops, with locally produced art and jewelry, and some great restaurants. I love the Paia Fish Market, where you can select your kind of fish and how you want it prepared – from blackened to steamed to fried. While not the healthiest option, the battered and fried Mahi Mahi is major.
Less than 15 minutes inland from Paia is Makawao, a rue Upcountry gem and landmark. This Instagram-pretty town is steeped in the Paniolo Hawaiian cowboy culture. Its two main streets are lined with picture-perfect store fronts that look out of the Old West, but in vibrant tropical fruit hues. Locally blown glass, paintings, handmade jewelry, and sculptures are all for sale here, and the galleries are really wonderful.
The Upcountry experience can be misunderstood for more of a sightseeing excursion. For a hands-on, full-fun day, consider a cooking class in Kula with Chef Yasko. She invites clients into her beautiful home with views of the sea below, and at both her indoor and outdoor cooking stations, will walk participants from start to finish preparing three separate entrees that the small group of six will then enjoy together. It’s a great way to take a break from the sun and you will feel spoiled throughout; the day begins with home-grown coffee in Yasko-made mugs, and ends with a delicious meal seasoned by the satisfaction of personal culinary achievement. Our menu during a recent class included pork belly, kalua pig, and lamb wrapped in taro leaves.
Next up: Maui Wowie, Part 3: Maui Mechanics