REVIEW: Skamania Lodge Sunday Champagne Brunch
LOCATION: Skamania Lodge, Stevenson, Wash.
COST: $45
RESERVATIONS? Highly recommended.
THE SCENE: Skamania is a beautiful lodge backdropped by lush evergreen forests, atop a gentle bluff with sweeping views of the Columbia River and the basalt cliffs of the Columbia River Gorge. The dining room that hosts brunch is spacious, with lofty ceilings and generous windows that afford dazzling vantage points to the surrounding scenery.
DRESS CODE? There isn’t one explicitly, which makes for a mix of dandier duds and finery, and more casually clothed folks who look prepped to hit the zipline course or tackle a hike. I wore jeans and a nice top and sweater and felt completely at ease.
THE MENU:
This ample brunch is spread across three thematic islands that are centrally located to the room; a desert and pastry table in one offside corner; and a to-serve counter along one wall that features ham and prime rib carved to order, a hot frittata dish, and eggs and omelets made to order.
Let’s start with the mid-room islands. The first features cheeses, cured meats, fresh fruit, pasta salads, and green salads with various stoppings and dressings. Hit this table first and assemble a small, delectable cheese plate to complement that first mimosa.
Next up, the middle island features breakfast staples, such as bacon, sausage, roasted potatoes, and more. It also has some more brunchy entrees; on our visit, those included a gorgonzola flank steak and an Asian chicken dish. This is also the island to scoop up a bowl of Skamania’s very delicious salmon chowder. It’s creamy and rich, and a drizzle of it also tastes fantastic over an omelet or potatoes.
The third central island is where you get your money’s worth, with an assortment of salmon, peel and eat shrimp, and let’s not forget the crab. Some people come just for this mouth-watering shellfish, cracking into its shells and dipping it into bowls of melted butter while knocking back the all-inclusive champagne. What’s wrong with that? The tiny bagels with lox, cream cheese and capers are a nice touch.
Along the kitchen side of room as you walk in, you’ll find the prime rib and ham, and the omelet station. Fine indulgences for a weekend brunch. And in the back, the sweets table always has an assortment of cobblers, cakes, and other sweets to cap off this lovely brunch experience.
IS IT WORTH IT? Absolutely. The view, the food, the service and the beverages all combine to deliver a divine experience. Let’s talk about the champagne. It’s completely included, it’s as much as you can drink, and you can have it straight up or with juice. OJ is their go-to for the classic mimosa but you can request cranberry too. Coffee is also bottomless, and delicious.
PRO TIPS:
- Ask your server for a waffle and they’ll promptly deliver you a tiny and amazing waffle with deep impressed squares perfect for holding either melting butter and savory syrup, or sweet whipped cream and strawberries.
- Use the smaller plates available at some stations to limit your portions and maximize your visits to the various stations. Think small bites.
- Get your money’s worth by zeroing in on the heavy hitters: the crab, the shrimp, and the prime rib.