Because It's There

REVIEW: Skamania Lodge Sunday Champagne Brunch

LOCATION: Skamania Lodge, Stevenson, Wash.

COST: $45

RESERVATIONS? Highly recommended.

THE SCENE: Skamania is a beautiful lodge backdropped by lush evergreen forests, atop a gentle bluff with sweeping views of the Columbia River and the basalt cliffs of the Columbia River Gorge. The dining room that hosts brunch is spacious, with lofty ceilings and generous windows that afford dazzling vantage points to the surrounding scenery.

DRESS CODE? There isn’t one explicitly, which makes for a mix of dandier duds and finery, and more casually clothed folks who look prepped to hit the zipline course or tackle a hike.  I wore jeans and a nice top and sweater and felt completely at ease.

THE MENU:

This ample brunch is spread across three thematic islands that are centrally located to the room; a desert and pastry table in one offside corner; and a to-serve counter along one wall that features ham and prime rib carved to order, a hot frittata dish, and eggs and omelets made to order.

Let’s start with the mid-room islands. The first features cheeses, cured meats, fresh fruit, pasta salads, and green salads with various stoppings and dressings. Hit this table first and assemble a small, delectable cheese plate to complement that first mimosa.

Next up, the middle island features breakfast staples, such as bacon, sausage, roasted potatoes, and more. It also has some more brunchy entrees; on our visit, those included a gorgonzola flank steak and an Asian chicken dish. This is also the island to scoop up a bowl of Skamania’s very delicious salmon chowder. It’s creamy and rich, and a drizzle of it also tastes fantastic over an omelet or potatoes.

The third central island is where you get your money’s worth, with an assortment of salmon, peel and eat shrimp, and let’s not forget the crab. Some people come just for this mouth-watering shellfish, cracking into its shells and dipping it into bowls of melted butter while knocking back the all-inclusive champagne. What’s wrong with that? The tiny bagels with lox, cream cheese and capers are a nice touch.

Along the kitchen side of room as you walk in, you’ll find the prime rib and ham, and the omelet station. Fine indulgences for a weekend brunch. And in the back, the sweets table always has an assortment of cobblers, cakes, and other sweets to cap off this lovely brunch experience.

IS IT WORTH IT? Absolutely. The view, the food, the service and the beverages all combine to deliver a divine experience. Let’s talk about the champagne. It’s completely included, it’s as much as you can drink, and you can have it straight up or with juice. OJ is their go-to for the classic mimosa but you can request cranberry too. Coffee is also bottomless, and delicious.

PRO TIPS:

• Ask your server for a waffle and they’ll promptly deliver you a tiny and amazing waffle with deep impressed squares perfect for holding either melting butter and savory syrup, or sweet whipped cream and strawberries.
• Use the smaller plates available at some stations to limit your portions and maximize your visits to the various stations. Think small bites.
• Get your money’s worth by zeroing in on the heavy hitters: the crab, the shrimp, and the prime rib.

Yay, you’re going to Maui! Here are some pro tips for being efficient about the mechanics of your trip so you can focus on the fun stuff, like snorkeling, poke, and fish tacos!

1. Get a rental car. Driving is easy on Maui – laid back, slow, with simple routes. You don’t want to dump money into Ubers.
2. Walk to the car. Picking up the rental car at the airport can be a bit of a drag. It’s hot. You’re tired. You just want to be on the beach already. Five million people are waiting to get on the shuttle to the rental car center. So get ahead of the crowd, skip the rental center shuttle, and walk the less-than-10 minutes down to the center. You will almost definitely beat out the crowds this way — which means, quicker to the beach!
3. Skip the store. If your condo has a kitchen and you plan to do any cooking or just want some beverages on hand, there’s a company called Maui Grocery Service where you order what you want and they shop for you and have it waiting at your condo/hotel upon arrival. This is a pretty sweet and a time saver! One friend described in awe the joy of arriving at their Kihei condo and finding the fridge stocked with POG, vodka and steaks, a fresh pineapple atop the counter.
4. Or, shop local. If you do any local grocery shopping, I love Foodland because they have a huge poke bar, not to be missed.
5. Take advantage of happy hours. This is the cheapest way to dine and drink out, and the happy hours are competitively awesome, all across the island.
6. Don’t overpack. Maui is so casual. Unless you have some really fancy outings planned, you don’t need much more here than beachwear and flip flops – or as the Hawaiians refer to them, slippers!
7. Do pack a reusable grocery bag. These pack flat and are great for day trips and for hauling stuff to and from the beach. And, if you over-shop, it can serve as a back-up carry-on for your trip home.
8. Remember the essentials. You’re visiting a hot place. What do you need? Sunglasses, headphones, allergy pills, aspirin (for sunburns), sunblock — these are all things you can buy in Maui, but they will almost always be cheaper to purchase back home.
9. Bring a HydroFlask. Any water bottle will do, but the HydroFlask’s rock because they’ll keep your water (or cocktail!) icy cold in the Maui sun. If you plan to buy water in Maui, forgo individual bottles for one of the large jugs of water.
10. Bring a book, leave a book. If you’re a reader like me, books are an essential part of relaxing by the pool. Try traveling with used copies that you can purchase up front cheaply, then leave behind without regret when you’re finished. Many coffee shops, hotels, and other establishments have specific areas to leave books behind.

Upcountry. I don’t know what it is about that word, but to me, there’s something magical to it, suggesting the removal of one’s self to a dreamier, less accessible place. Upcountry. In Maui, this refers to the four major communities on the slopes of Mount Haleakala: Pukalani, Makawao, Kula and Ulupalakua. I’m including mention of Paia because it’s a gateway to Upcountry and can be included in an excursion designed to explore this special area.

It’s perhaps counterintuitive for some Hawaii travelers to think of leaving the beach for inland. But to skip Upcountry is to miss a major part of Maui culture and forgo some of its prettiest sights and most interesting places. For example, there’s the impressive Haleakala Crater, and the Ali’I Kula Lavender Farm, an enchanting wash of violent flowers covering countryside at 4000 foot elevation.

Paia is a fun little surf town where you can shop and watch giant sea turtles crawl around on the beach. The town is small, with only about 2,600 residents. But it has some fun shops, with locally produced art and jewelry, and some great restaurants. I love the Paia Fish Market, where you can select your kind of fish and how you want it prepared – from blackened to steamed to fried. While not the healthiest option, the battered and fried Mahi Mahi is major.

Less than 15 minutes inland from Paia is Makawao, a rue Upcountry gem and landmark. This Instagram-pretty town is steeped in the Paniolo Hawaiian cowboy culture. Its two main streets are lined with picture-perfect store fronts that look out of the Old West, but in vibrant tropical fruit hues. Locally blown glass, paintings, handmade jewelry, and sculptures are all for sale here, and the galleries are really wonderful.

The Upcountry experience can be misunderstood for more of a sightseeing excursion. For a hands-on, full-fun day, consider a cooking class in Kula with Chef Yasko. She invites clients into her beautiful home with views of the sea below, and at both her indoor and outdoor cooking stations, will walk participants from start to finish preparing three separate entrees that the small group of six will then enjoy together. It’s a great way to take a break from the sun and  you will feel spoiled throughout; the day begins with home-grown coffee in Yasko-made mugs, and ends with a delicious meal seasoned by the satisfaction of personal culinary achievement. Our menu during a recent class included pork belly, kalua pig, and lamb wrapped in taro leaves.

Next up: Maui Wowie, Part 3: Maui Mechanics