Portlanders take brunch seriously. Willing to wait for an hour or more for some of the city’s hottest hotcakes and beautiful biscuits, Oregonians’ devotion to the late-morning meal is evident not just by their patience, but by the sheer volume of options in this Northwest foodie city. Narrowing it down can be tough, as can weighing new players against old standards. Anyone who has lived or currently resides there has an opinion about which restaurants rank among the town’s best. A consistent favorite of mine is Genies Cafe.
Genie’s is a staple in Southeast Portland, at the corner of 11th and Glisan. The neighborhood has seen slight gentrification in recent years; for instance, the next door secondhand store of my youth is now sliced into hip boutiques. Genie’s presents itself like a local stalwart — a bit grunge, completely unpretentious, with unhurried hipster waiters dolling out substantive pours of copy and culinary guidance.
The food approach here is very Portland: eggs are local, cage free; meats are raised locally too; same with the produce; sausages and cured meats are made in-house. Many items can be vegan-ized when requested.
Open 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. seven days a week, brunch is served all day and the generous menu includes omelets, scrambles, benedicts, pancakes, and specialty dishes like hash, potato cakes, and my favorite, the huevos rancheros, which features house-made ranchero and roasted pasilla atop seasoned black beans, jack cheese, and corn tortilla. Add the house-made chorizo for a kick.
Genies is located at 1101 S.E. Division Street, Portland, Oregon. 503-445-9777.